On Sapou, overgrown vegetation partially conceals the remains of what was once a city.
At Fefan, craftsmen carve Chuukese lovesticks - slender, dagger-shaped wooden rods carved on each side, which are sold in handfuls to tourists with an eye for exotic souvenirs.
In past years, an island man would carve his personal notches on the lovestick and let his would-be sweethearts feel it. At night, lovestick in hand, he would kneel beside the thatch wall opposite where a girl lay sleeping, poke the stick through the wall and entangle her long hair, hopefully awakening her without arousing her family.
The silent language of the lovestick began when the girl put her fingers around the shaft's notches and identified the owner.
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