Exploring the Magic Isle

Every area of Maui is so astonishingly different in climate, culture and geography from every other that touring Maui is like visiting seven islands in one.

Starting at the begining is always good, and that means West Maui—the historic heart of the island, and, many would argue, of all the Hawaiian islands. West Maui includes Lahaina, a National Historic LAndmark, and the famed Ka`anapali and Kapalua resort areas (Ka`anapali's Whale Museum of the Pacific and Kapalua's Honolua Store are special treats). Some of the prettiest beaches in the world are in this region—including Kapalua Bay, often named "America's Best Beach" by independent researchers. Protected by the picturesque West Mountains, which are topped by the 5800 ft. peak of Pu`u Kukui, the weather in this region is superb and the oppotunities for exploring the ecology, the history, and the culture of Maui are unmatched.

Heading north from Kapalua one discovers a wild, majestic area of Maui few visitors encounter—the soaring sea cliffs topped by verdant ranch lands that overlook the Maui-Molokai channel. Further on is the charming village of Kahakuloa, with its wood-frame houses and churches, where the villagers still live and work the land much as their forefathers did centuries ago. Stop for a shave ice and "talk story," the travel a few miles to discover the almost surreal beauty of the Aina Anuhea Tropical Gardens.

Onward one emerges from the lush and winding roads of the Northwest region to enter Wailuku and Kahului, the principal city centers of Maui, where most of the island's 100,000 citizens live. Lately there have been exciting developments in town—such as the award winning restoration of Wailuku's historic lao Theater, the opening of the world-class Maui Arts & Cultural Center, the Hawaii Nature center in lao Valley State Park, and the whimsical sail-topped expansion of the Ka`humanu Center. "Main Street" on Maui is alive with galleries and shops, artists and artistans, and holds delights that shouldn't be overlooked. Finally, don't forget the Bailey House, with its fascinating exhibits from both ancient and missionary eras, and of course the "not to be missed" lao Needle, Hawaii Nature center, Maui Tropical Plantation, and the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum.

Decisions, decisions. Head to the cool breezes of the Upcountry? Across the central valley through waving fields of sugar cane to sunny South Maui? Or how about Hana? The wold-renowned "Road to Hana" is a destinations in itself, Maui's own version if the Yellow Brick Road in the Land of Oz. Passing through fun nd funky Pa`ia Town, the wind surfer capital of the universe, this spectacular drive soon leaves the known world behind and transports you through rain forests, past waterfalls and taro farms, past black sand beaches and blow holes, to the "emerald" pastoral village that everyone calls Heavenly Hana. Here the old Hawaaiian way of life still goes on in that special pace so enchanting to visitors. Some of the most unforgettable scenery in the world can be found in Hana, including `Ohe`o Gulch (for years mistakenly called the Seven Pools), and the quaint church where Charles Lindbergh is buried.

The road from Hana, however, is markedly different. Massive, starkly etched lava streams out from Mt. Haleakala's last eruption some 200 years ago, create a landscape of barren beauty flowing in natural stone sculptures to the sea. The road leads out from these thrilling wastelands to yet another of Maui's varied worlds—the green, rolling meadows of Upcountry. Highlights include the acclaimed Tedeschi Vineyards and Tasting Room, `Ulupalakua Ranch town now bustling with great restaurants, unique shops and galleries, yet still retaining a real flavor of the Old West. Of course, looming over everything on Maui is mighty Haleakala itself, Upcountry's crowing glory. Sunrise or sunset at the crater Summit is, quite simple, the event of a lifetime.

Our brief tour of the Magic Isle ends in sun-kissed South Maui, home of the luxurious resort areas of Wailea and Makena, the booming beach town of Kihei—chock full of restaurants, galleries, fun shops and activities—and gorgeous golden beaches that seem to never end. South past the sweeping solitude of Makena Beach is rugged La Perouse Bay, where the first westerner to discover Maui, French navigator Jean-Francoise de la Perouse, anchored in 1786. A local hero because of his decision to leave paradise alone and not claim Maui for France, a lava-rock monument stands to honor his memory.

We've barely scratched the surface, of course. For every one of these areas, entire books have been written! But perhaps now you have at least a sense of why Hawaiians have always said, "Maui no ka `oi," which means simply, "Maui is the best."

Courtesy of Maui Visitors Bureau